Dumela (that’s hello in Sesotho!) Welcome to Jozi! That’s what the locals call it. It’s the “Big Apple” of South Africa. Known as the city of gold, it draws millions of immigrants throughout the African continent who come in search of its riches. But that can be hard to find in this gritty urban jungle where most newcomers cram into a slum village of dilapidated tenements. On my first day in the city, my driver and I arrived at an intersection where we encountered a confrontation between a mob of residents and at least 20 officers outfitted in red and white uniforms, riot shields and batons. “They’re called ‘red ants’”, he explained as we passed by heaps of tossed furniture piled high on the sidewalk. “They evict people.” Meanwhile the sprawling suburbs of JoBurg offer some insulation for the BMW-driving, gated-estate crowd who can afford to distance themselves from the raw nature of the streets. Despite the disparity, a vibrant synergy co-exists among rich and poor, urban and rural, citizen and immigrant. World Cup fever has also taken root with ambitious projects, like the Gautrain high speed rail system, in full swing. For those willing to go along for the ride….it’s the place to be!
Johannesburg
Dumela (that’s hello in Sesotho!) Welcome to Jozi! That’s what the locals call it. It’s the “Big Apple” of South Africa. Known as the city of gold, it draws millions of immigrants throughout the African continent who come in search of its riches. But that can be hard to find in this gritty urban jungle where most newcomers cram into a slum village of dilapidated tenements. On my first day in the city, my driver and I arrived at an intersection where we encountered a confrontation between a mob of residents and at least 20 officers outfitted in red and white uniforms, riot shields and batons. “They’re called ‘red ants’”, he explained as we passed by heaps of tossed furniture piled high on the sidewalk. “They evict people.” Meanwhile the sprawling suburbs of JoBurg offer some insulation for the BMW-driving, gated-estate crowd who can afford to distance themselves from the raw nature of the streets. Despite the disparity, a vibrant synergy co-exists among rich and poor, urban and rural, citizen and immigrant. World Cup fever has also taken root with ambitious projects, like the Gautrain high speed rail system, in full swing. For those willing to go along for the ride….it’s the place to be!
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THE TURNING POINT....Many AIDS activists will tell you that the South African government’s approach to HIV/AIDS has seemed like a roller coaster ride of denial and misinformation that has resulted in the deaths of more than one million South Africans. The government will say that its policies are sound and among the most comprehensive in the world with nearly a quarter of a million people currently on ARV treatment. But no matter which side you believe or support, it was quite an awe-inspiring phenomenon to witness the two entities united for an unprecedented conference on an HIV/AIDS national strategic plan (NSP).
“This strategy must work, “Deputy President Phumzile Mlambo-Ngcuka declared during the opening ceremony. “Our actions will need to be measurable. We want to build on the successes of the past but we also want to learn from our failures.”
Several hundred people gathered for the two-day conference to comment on the new draft that encompasses bold benchmarks. They include halving the rate of new HIV infections and expanding treatment to 80 percent of those living with HIV by 2011.
“What you are seeing now… is the end of denial about HIV in this country and a very belated but not too late commitment to addressing the epidemic,” explained AIDS Law Project Director Mark Heywood, who helped draft the plan. The organization has been involved in several legal battles with the government over the years to advocate for greater access to drug treatment.
“Our primary interest has always been getting the right response to the epidemic right but our handshakes are only going to last as long as the government and other parties decide to do the right thing,” he said.
Most stakeholders agree that the "right thing" is to implement greater oversight of the $2 billion plan to ensure that it is effectively carried out over the next five years. While the plan is still pending review, the policy shift is being hailed as a major victory by government and civil society sectors.
“It took the government a long time [15 years] to realize that we are not fighting against them," said Treatment Action Campaign (TAC) spokesperson Linda Mafu. "We don’t have to have to have a community where there are 900 deaths per day or new infections."
“It has been a long walk to freedom, I must say," she exclaimed.
FINDING A CURE….20 year-old “Linda” does not have the HIV virus. Yet he finds himself sitting in a doctors’ office at Chris Hani Baragwanath Hospital in Soweto seeking a cure. He is one of 3000 participants involved in a new HIV vaccine trial titled Phambili, a Zulu phrase that appropriately means "moving forward". It was launched earlier this year by the South African AIDS Vaccine Initiative (SAAVI) in partnership with the National Institutes of Health and pharmaceutical company Merck.
“People have been preaching about the cure for AIDS,” says Linda, who recalled the grief of watching his 37-year-old uncle die from the disease last year. “I thought to myself if this is the chance [for a cure], let me take the chance.”
For the next six months, he has to subject himself to monthly checkups that require him to give blood samples and receive at least three inoculations. One month into the study, he has not experienced any complications other than a slight pain on his shoulder.
The preventative vaccine is designed to destroy HIV-infected cells and inhibit their ability to replicate within the body. Dr. Busi Nkala, a program manager for the Phambili trial, called the study a major breakthrough.
“It is the first HIV vaccine to get to this phase,” she said of the trial which has entered its second phase to assess safety and effectiveness. “We have lots of other vaccines that have been tested, but this is the first one to go [this far] and already it has got promising results.”
Linda is also hopeful. Even though he could not save his uncle from the scourge of AIDS, he sees his small role in the drug experiment as one that could have a much larger impact if it leads to the development of real vaccine that could preserve countless lives.
“At least I can be proud of myself that I did something right,” he said.
“People have been preaching about the cure for AIDS,” says Linda, who recalled the grief of watching his 37-year-old uncle die from the disease last year. “I thought to myself if this is the chance [for a cure], let me take the chance.”
For the next six months, he has to subject himself to monthly checkups that require him to give blood samples and receive at least three inoculations. One month into the study, he has not experienced any complications other than a slight pain on his shoulder.
The preventative vaccine is designed to destroy HIV-infected cells and inhibit their ability to replicate within the body. Dr. Busi Nkala, a program manager for the Phambili trial, called the study a major breakthrough.
“It is the first HIV vaccine to get to this phase,” she said of the trial which has entered its second phase to assess safety and effectiveness. “We have lots of other vaccines that have been tested, but this is the first one to go [this far] and already it has got promising results.”
Linda is also hopeful. Even though he could not save his uncle from the scourge of AIDS, he sees his small role in the drug experiment as one that could have a much larger impact if it leads to the development of real vaccine that could preserve countless lives.
“At least I can be proud of myself that I did something right,” he said.
SURVIVAL OF THE FITTEST…It’s all about survival. It’s the only gospel that “Sam” knows. And it’s what he lives by since arriving in South Africa. He came to this country illegally from Zimbabwe in 2002. (I am using an alias to protect his identity.)
“I laugh when I hear about the Mexicans [in the US],” he jokes to me, cracking a small gap-tooth grin. His smooth dark skin, squinted eyes, and trim chiseled physique make him look like a debonair twin of rapper 50 Cent.
Though he seems a little rough around the edges, “Sam” has a gentle spirit and steadfast resolve. His primary goal is to go back to school. He left Zimbabwe while pursuing a business degree amid rising political and economic tensions. (For more info, click here.)
Today, the country has disintegrated into fiscal ruin with an 80 percent unemployment rate and hyperinflation spiking above 1700 percent. According to some who still live there, basic goods and services like a loaf of bread or taxi fare can cost thousands of local dollars that seem to require a wad of cash so thick, one might feel as if they are making a down payment on a house.
“Even if [President] Mugabe dies today, people won’t rush back,” he explains, referring to the estimated 3 million Zimbabweans living in South Africa. “It will take time…at least 10-20 years to rebuild the economy.”
Rebuilding his own life has not been easy. In spite of his educational background, “Sam” has resorted to taking odd jobs “that no one else wants” to pay the bills and send money home to his mother and siblings in Zimbabwe. He landed his fist gig as a repairman, fixing beverage refrigerators in convenience stores. Then he moved on to an apprenticeship as a plumber. Unable to earn a steady paycheck, he joined a car service company last year. Despite the long hours, he was disappointed to learn that his income still falls short of what’s needed to resume his education. Enrolling in a business program at a local college costs about 12,000 rand ($1700) for a semester.
“I was barely able to raise 300 rand ($43),” he remarks. But even with his dream deferred, he resurrects his entrepreneurial vision with the idea of one day owning his own car fleet.
Until then….it’s all about survival.
“I laugh when I hear about the Mexicans [in the US],” he jokes to me, cracking a small gap-tooth grin. His smooth dark skin, squinted eyes, and trim chiseled physique make him look like a debonair twin of rapper 50 Cent.
Though he seems a little rough around the edges, “Sam” has a gentle spirit and steadfast resolve. His primary goal is to go back to school. He left Zimbabwe while pursuing a business degree amid rising political and economic tensions. (For more info, click here.)
Today, the country has disintegrated into fiscal ruin with an 80 percent unemployment rate and hyperinflation spiking above 1700 percent. According to some who still live there, basic goods and services like a loaf of bread or taxi fare can cost thousands of local dollars that seem to require a wad of cash so thick, one might feel as if they are making a down payment on a house.
“Even if [President] Mugabe dies today, people won’t rush back,” he explains, referring to the estimated 3 million Zimbabweans living in South Africa. “It will take time…at least 10-20 years to rebuild the economy.”
Rebuilding his own life has not been easy. In spite of his educational background, “Sam” has resorted to taking odd jobs “that no one else wants” to pay the bills and send money home to his mother and siblings in Zimbabwe. He landed his fist gig as a repairman, fixing beverage refrigerators in convenience stores. Then he moved on to an apprenticeship as a plumber. Unable to earn a steady paycheck, he joined a car service company last year. Despite the long hours, he was disappointed to learn that his income still falls short of what’s needed to resume his education. Enrolling in a business program at a local college costs about 12,000 rand ($1700) for a semester.
“I was barely able to raise 300 rand ($43),” he remarks. But even with his dream deferred, he resurrects his entrepreneurial vision with the idea of one day owning his own car fleet.
Until then….it’s all about survival.
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